Disteghil Sar or Distaghil Sar (Urdu: دستاغل سر) is the greatest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range, in Gilgit Baltistan. It is the nineteenth highest mountain on earth and the seventh highest peak in Pakistan. Destghil sar is a Wakhi language word, that means “above the inner ranch.” The mountain has an about 3 kilometers long top ridge above 7400 meters with three distinct summits: (north) west 7885 meters, central 7760 meters, and (south) east 7696 meters or 7535 meters.
Climbing history of Distaghil Sar
Distaghil Sar was first climbed in the year of 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart of an Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan. The expedition climbed the western part of the South face and continued over the southwest ridge to the highest summit. 3 years earlier, in the year of 1957, an English expedition had attempted to climb the mountain from the South and the West, but failed because of bad weather. Likewise, weather foiled a 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge. The highest, western summit has been scaled twice since in the year of 1980 and 1982 over the original route. Two attempts over the daunting north face, in the year of1988 and 1998, were unsuccessful. The eastern summit was first climbed in 1980 by a Polish expedition over the east face, and was reascended in the year of 1983.