Sangemarmar Sar: The Pyramidal Peak of Pakistan

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Sangemarmar Sar: The Pyramidal Peak of Pakistan

Sangemarmar Sar is a pyramidal peak in the Batura Muztagh, at the end of a spur ridge running southwest from Pasu Sar in the state of Pakistan. It lies between the Muchuhar Glacier, on the west, and the Shispare (or Hasanabad) Glacier on the east.

Because it is much lower in elevation in contrast to many of the surrounding peaks, like Batura Sar and Rakaposhi, Sangemarmar Sar is little-known, and there has been just one successful ascent of the peak, in accordance with the Himalayan Index. However, due to its location on the southern flank of the main crest of the range, relatively near the Hunza Valley, it does enjoy tremendous vertical relief above local terrain. For instance, its summit rises over 5,000 metres (16,400 feet) above the Hunza River, in a horizontal distance of 15 kilometres (9 mi).[2]

The mountain was named (as “Sangemarmur”, meaning “marble”, after a conspicuous band of yellow marble crossing the summit) in the year of 1964 by the First Canadian Himalayan Expedition, comprising Fred Roots (leader), Donald Lyon, John Ricker, Lisle Irwin, Donald Poole, Hermann Jamek, Momin Khalifa and Karl Tomm. They intended to locate and climb Hachindar Chhish, which they evaluated to be a peak a few kilometers to the west of Sangemarmar Sar; although that peak proved too difficult and technical for the party to attempt. The expedition reached 6,300 metres (20,700 feet) but was then compelled to retreat by repeated heavy snowstorms.

On the day of July 11, 1984, a team from the institute of Osaka University made the first ascent of the mountain through via the southwest ridge. The expedition comprised Takashi Matsuo (leader), Hiromi Okuyama, Takehiro Hirota, Tokio Kozuki, Masaya Oishi, Toru Sakakibara, Kenya Sato, Shinichi Miyata, Tomoyoshi Mizukawa, Hiroyuki Onishi, and Akira Noguchi. All members reached the summit, on 2 separate days. They encountered ice up to 50 degrees. They used 3 high camps, and fixed 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) of rope.

 

 

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